May 1st, 2019 was the first day of the Reiwa era. Japanese eras change whenever there is a new emperor, and former emperor Akihito was granted permission (yes, even emperors need permission) to abdicate the throne to his son Naruhito for health reasons. Because most eras change due to the death of an emperor, era…
Category: Japanese History
Taketa (Oita)
Taketa city was once a thriving samurai town supporting nearby Oka Castle. When the fortunes of the castle faded at the end of the Edo era, so went the town. But the current residents of Taketa take great pride in their history and have maintained and restored dozens of historic buildings, repurposing them for modern…
Golden Gai
Literally crammed into a tiny area of Shinjuku, Golden Gai sits in limbo between the days after WW2 and modern Tokyo. A hub for prostitution after WW2, now Golden Gai is a cluster of 200 tiny bars and restaurants lining six alleys, some too narrow for two people to pass side-by-side. While many of these…
Kyu Asakura House
Uppity Daikanyama is known more to be the home of the modern rich and famous, but 100 years ago, it was also home to Asakura Torajiro, a politician and businessman of Tokyo. The large two-story house sits in the middle of a beautiful Japanese garden, all of which is hidden behind a very modern shopping…
Yanaka
Yanaka is a quiet neighborhood in the northeast corner of urban Tokyo, partly because it is the last of the truly shitamachi neighborhoods of old Tokyo and partly because several thousands of its inhabitants are no longer part of the living. Yanaka Cemetery takes a large part of the neighborhood and is the permanent “home”…
Yamato Antique Fair
On the third Saturday of each month, hundreds of sellers gather around the Yamato JR station in Kanagawa at a street fair focused on Japanese antiques. Sellers range from professional dealers to market hoppers with boxes of unsorted items they hope to rid themselves of quickly. For the visitor to Japan, the antique fair environment…
Kokeshi
The humble kokeshi were said to be invented in the Tohoku region of Japan as souvenirs for travelers coming to enjoy the regional hot springs. The simple design of traditional kokeshi is a round “head” attached to a cylinder body, created from cherry or mizuki wood by an artisan using a lathe. If the faces…
Tohoku Week – Zunda
When you consider the elegance of Japanese tea, the homely looking zunda looks a bit out of place. By appearance, it could be a regurgitated bright green goo, but zunda takes its rightful place beside the more refined cup of ocha by virtue of its history. Lord Date Masamune, founder of Sendai, dined on zunda,…
Tohoku Week – Kanrantei
When you sit down in Kanrantei and served a frothy matcha and sweet wagashi, you may not realize the building you are in may be better traveled in Japan than you. Kanrantei teahouse was a gift to Data Musumine, the daimyo who founded the city of Sendai, from the legendary Japanese leader Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Kanrantei was built…
Tohoku Week – Yamadera
Editors Note: We’re back from vacation and celebrating with a week of posts about our vacation destination: Tohoku! Beat the summer heat of Tokyo and the wall-to-wall crowds of Kyoto and visit Tohoku in northern Japan instead! Located just a half hour outside of Yamagata city in the Prefecture of the same name, Yamadera literally means…
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